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Our boats are CLC designs built from kits, built in 1999 and 2001. We started with William’s Pautuxet the first year. This is a hard chine design that one person can build, but four hands are better when it comes to positioning and repositioning the slippery fiber glass cloth or tacking down the deck. |
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This is the West River built in 2000. I had just about given up the idea of owning a kayak, as all the models I tried seemed like death traps to me, too tipsy, too light, too heavy to track. It might have had something to do with one of our test runs taking place between the two hurricanes that hit the Maine coast in 1999. We had borrowed two boats, William was paddling a plywood multi-chine design by boatbuilder Eddie Epstein. I was in a wood-frame skin boat built by Laurie Barg. It had an amazing exotic, primoridial character to it. It made me feel like I had metamorphosed into a sea creature. But it didn't do much for my confidence when we started to get bashed by the hurricane. I know the skin boats are tough, but it was all about the psychology for me. Thin skin equals going under. Getting back to the Hurricane: We had just paddled up Somes Sound (Acadia National Park Maine), the water was seductively calm, and so clear, the usual lull before a storm with tide running out to sea. Just as the ocean came into full view the wind picked up, blowing swiftly out to sea as well. Trying not to panic we quickly turned to paddle back. It was an ardous hour compared to the relatively few minutes it had taken to coast out, made more so by the building hurricane winds now thrashing the coast. The first half was relatively quick compared to the second, midway back we were struggling hard, the swells were unbelievable. It was a rude awakening to the responsibility of kayaking; the fact that we had no rescue gear, not to mention skills, or the awareness to have checked the weather. William was less impressed by the outing, with years of experience sailing he had come through many storms. His comment is that there wasn't that much wind. I wasn't so relaxed about it and decided I would give it up or find a boat I was willing to die in. Fortunately for us we made it in that day, however, just a few miles from where we were struggling with monster swells a couple was swept off the rocks by a rogue wave, to their death. It was their honeymoon. A constant reminder that the ocean demands respect. After that trip I had all but abandoned the idea of kayaking untill...
...I spotted the WestRiver 164 on top of a car in Montpelier Vermont. It was love at first sight, in an infatuated daze I said "that's my boat." Sure enough we fit together very well, to the degree that I was able to surf her in over complicated waves at the mouth of the Delaware Bay estuary, and can re-enter without the use of a paddle float, because she's so stable.
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Paddling the Maine coast was the first test of our map reading skills, meaning, we had none. Better put, we hadn't even considered using maps at that point. William had always sailed without the use of a map as he knew the waters surrounding Cape Cod by heart, and I had always trusted that my brothers or father knew where they were going when we headed out for day trips in the Delaware Bay and Atlantic Ocean. Heck I thought marine maps were art objects, collectors items, distinctly framed on someone elses wall.
On this trip we launched down by the Boat Building School in Stonington Me. and headed directly for the nearest island. We beached on Little Potato, which is a great place for an overnight, truly pristine little beach, big enough for one party only. Beaching right after us, a couple of empty nesters like ourselves, rigged to the nines. Perhaps they mistook us for lost children, or perhaps lost without their children, as they set about to admonish us for not having a map on deck. It was just too beautiful a setting to argue, and by the look of their boats we could see they were alpha, so we rolled over and they immediately softened their voices and explained that we had just paddled over a host of rocks that would normally have punctured our boats had the tide been lower. Well maybe...I knew how much epoxy I had used on my boat, inside, outside and upside down, so I wasn't so convinced. But like good little seadogs we padded off to the store and bought nautical maps for the entire Atlantic seaboard. The next outing we took our map and tried to navigate by it around the labyrinth like coastline and confusing, evasive islands and inlets. We got lost.
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Notice how each photo of Maine looks like the next, even though these shots were taken miles apart. It really is easy to get turned around if not extremely carefull, especially along the coast between Acadia and Stonington.
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Another live to tell tale. We had never paddled this section of the Saquenay River. We knew about the extreme tides in the St. Lawrence, the swift rush of water when the tides change, but we hadn't really put it together, that all that is magnified considerably here at the mouth of Baie St. Marguerite. Naïve as usual we started across toward the baie, I was extremely anxious, fighting the urge to bolt back to land, my fear overcome by the fascination of the opal like blackness of the water. A mix of fresh and salt water host to a diverse population of sea mammals, it's true what they say that the fjord does not readily reveal its true nature, mysterious and very moody, the tides rush through those points of land like a bucket being emptied, with no visible clue from the surface of the water. All this came together as we tracked our boats toward those two points of land, but not before we were joined by a local kayaker who paddled up along side us and in the most tactful, polite Canadian way asked if we knew what we were doing. The very fact that we were headed in that direction at that moment told him we knew nothing about the force of water that was about to overtake us, one that would have sent our boats into a determined spin before shooting us like leaves, down river with the tide. A white water kayakers dream. Short story is we got in line behind our gracious guide, along with his companion, and paddled along the coast, clear of the imminent tide. To the instruction of our guide we timed the moment with great care and made it across to the other side (see below). Essentially, there is a small window in which a kayaker can hope to navigate the deep waters that well the entrance to the baie.
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![]() 2003: This summer we paddled the St. Lawrence again. The weather was perfect, the krill abundant and the sightings were numerous. These photos were taken at Paradis Marin ou Les Escoumins about 2.5 hours north of Quebec city. This is a phenomenal place to view whales that migrate from the Gaspe Bay. The banks of the St. Lawrence drop dramatically from 25 m at the mouth of the Saguenay to 350 m and more as the river widens, creating a rich submarine riverbed of cold arctic saltwater; invitation to the largest sea mammals on earth. From these vantage points, almost anywhere along the rocky shore of the northern St. Lawrence, one can see minke, humpback, right, sperm, and blue feeding close to shore. William on the shore of the St. Lawrence (Top left and left). Hours before this photo was taken the St. Lawrence was covered in a heavy fog. We launched anyway, unable to hold ourselves back with the sound of repeated blows echoing through the mist. (photo at bottom) |
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2003 - William waiting for a whale, while Beluga surfaces behind him, St. Lawrence . One of the things that makes the Saint Lawrence so special, besides the rugged, sparsely settled precambrian shoreline, are the people and the respect they have for the marine mammals. Codes of Ethics and approach laws are posted strategically along the coastal trails and at every whale watching outfit, from Tadousac as far north as one can go. Had William been turned in the other direction, paddling toward this beluga, the river authority would have swept upon him like a hawk, confiscated his boat and fined him heavily. And no, the boat would not be returned.
Whales online Code of ethics: Marine Mammal Approach Laws apply in the U.S. as well as Canada, although Canada has led the way in terms of protecting marine mammals. For details of the MMPA (Marine Mammal Protection Act) in U.S. Waters visit OCEANA.org. The Whale News Network International current events You wanted to know... Site highlights |
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